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Thanks to the way the instrument is wired, you can do this without having to de-solder anything or even remove your pickguard!ġ. mono) and "Rick-o-Sound" (stereo) - and you want to know the actual measured values of your two volume pots. not modified) internal wiring and the two jack sockets - "Standard" (i.e. Let's say you own a 4001 or 4003 bass with standard (i.e. That way you'll get the best chance of a good, stable contact.įinally, when you short your test probes to each other, are you getting a stable near-zero reading from the meter? If it's a bit flaky, it would be a good idea to give the probe ends, the plugs and the meter's sockets a good seeing-to with a cotton bud and some contact cleaner.This may be very old news to the technically adept Rick owners here, but FWIW. If you haven't got any, you could get hold of a small terminal block, shove the pup wires in and screw them in tight, then stuff the test probes in the other end and tighten the screws on them too.
#Ovation magnum bass circuit board skin#
To avoid the skin resistance issue, ideally you need test probes with alligator clips on the ends. Old solder can make unreliable contact with test probes. Re-stripping the wire ends is a good idea. It's also possible that your own skin resistance across the meter probes could have been compromising your readings. your variable readings: Having completely disconnected the neck pup from the switch, I'm guessing that you had to hold your meter probes onto the ends of the wires? The variable readings you were getting are very likely the result of imperfect contact. I don't know what the enclosed box type switch I have now is and I'd rather get something open so easy to clean/maintenance if I need to. Just gotta get a new switch and I think I will just put my original neck higain back in. So I removed the switch and neck pup and just wired the working bridge pup direct so I can still play the bass for now. My bridge pick up is a stable read of 15 point something. Numbers are different each time and they won’t settle down. I just cannot get a stable read from the neck pup. Maybe I just need to restrip all the wire ends and start over with clean leads. When I attach the pickup leads to a plugged in cable and tap the pickup with a screwdriver I can hear the tapping in the speakers. 6., sometimes 10.00, sometimes in the 12 range. I also desoldered the pup ground wire from the switch and removed the pick up entirely from the switch and tested it independent of the switch between the ground and a hot on the multi meter and it reads. This is for both the switch and the pick up even with the switch in any of the three positions. It reads different every time I try to retest. Sometimes in the 14.0 range sometimes in the 300s range sometimes in the. On both the switch and the pick up testing as you suggested I’m getting various numbers. If it's the latter, that speaks of a dud pickup with shorted turns. 503 you do mean half an Ohm, and not 503 Ohms. 503 (half an Ohm) reading you got was basically the resistance of the jack cable.ĪDDED LATER - of course, I'm assuming that by. If the toggle is in the centre or the "bridge" position, it will be loaded down by the resistance of the bridge pup and pots, so you'll most likely see that 15.12k (or very close to). With the neck pup hot wire still disconnected from the switch (and maybe a bit of tape over it so it can't touch anything) put the switch toggle into the "neck" position and attach your test meter between the terminal the neck pup was soldered to and the metal case of the switch.
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However, at this point we still don't know for sure that the switch is healthy, and in diagnostics it's best not to assume anything, so now you should double-check the switch, as follows: If the reading is still zero (or near as dammit - see below*), the short circuit is in the pup or its wires. To establish whether it's the switch or the pup/wiring that's showing a short, you'll need to open up the control cavity and do this:Īs before, keep your volume and tone controls wide open and leave an empty jack plug or jack cable in the socket (this is just in case the jack socket is one of those that shorts itself when the plug is removed - I can't remember!)ĭe-solder the hot (red) lead of the neck pup from the selector switch and put your test meter across the loose hot wire and the casing of the switch, where the negative wire is attached. Before you go buying a replacement switch, let's check whether you need one.